Airy wave theory

Summary

Airy wave theory is the linear theory of water waves. It describes waves whose height is small compared with their length and with the water depth. The free boundary conditions are linearised about the flat surface, and the problem becomes linear with constant coefficients. Its basic solutions are sinusoidal waves, and general small waves are superpositions of them. It gives the dispersion relation of water waves and is the base of most practical wave forecasting and coastal engineering.