Physical oceanography

Summary

Physical oceanography is the study of the physical state and motions of the ocean. It covers currents driven by wind and by differences in density, waves, tides and mixing. It also covers the exchange of heat and fresh water with the atmosphere. Its mathematics is the fluid dynamics of a thin layer of stratified fluid on a rotating sphere. It is built on the Navier–Stokes equations with the Coriolis force. It is a central part of climate science, since the ocean stores and moves most of the heat of the climate system.