Math 2.0

Geophysics Definition

Hasselmann's kinetic equation for wind waves

Builds on Ocean wave spectrumWater wavesDispersion relationBoltzmann equation

Definition

Consider surface gravity waves on deep water, with wavevector k∈ℝ2k \in \R^2 and angular frequency ω(k)=g∣k∣\omega(k) = \sqrt{g \abs{k}} given by the dispersion relation. Describe the sea by its wave action spectrum N(k,x,t)≥0N(k, x, t) \ge 0, the energy spectrum in wavenumber space divided by ω(k)\omega(k). Write Nj=N(kj)N_j = N(k_j) and ωj=ω(kj)\omega_j = \omega(k_j) for j=1,2,3j = 1, 2, 3, and N=N(k)N = N(k), ω=ω(k)\omega = \omega(k). Hasselmann's kinetic equation is ∂N∂t+cg⋅∇xN=Snl+Sin+Sds.\frac{\partial N}{\partial t} + c_g \cdot \nabla_x N = S_{nl} + S_{in} + S_{ds}. Here cg=∇kωc_g = \nabla_k \omega is the group velocity, and SinS_{in} and SdsS_{ds} are the source terms for wind input and dissipation. The transfer by resonant four-wave interactions is Snl(k)=∫T(k,k1,k2,k3) δ(k+k1−k2−k3) δ(ω+ω1−ω2−ω3) [N1N2N3+NN2N3−NN1N3−NN1N2] dk1 dk2 dk3.S_{nl}(k) = \int T(k, k_1, k_2, k_3) \, \delta(k + k_1 - k_2 - k_3) \, \delta(\omega + \omega_1 - \omega_2 - \omega_3) \, \big[ N_1 N_2 N_3 + N N_2 N_3 - N N_1 N_3 - N N_1 N_2 \big] \, dk_1 \, dk_2 \, dk_3. The kernel T≥0T \ge 0 is computed from the nonlinear equations of water waves.

Remarks

Example: the bracket equals NN1N2N3(N−1+N1−1−N2−1−N3−1)N N_1 N_2 N_3 \big( N^{-1} + N_1^{-1} - N_2^{-1} - N_3^{-1} \big) when all values are positive. For the spectrum N(k)=1/ω(k)N(k) = 1/\omega(k) the bracket is NN1N2N3(ω+ω1−ω2−ω3)N N_1 N_2 N_3 (\omega + \omega_1 - \omega_2 - \omega_3), which vanishes on the resonance set. So this spectrum is a stationary solution of ∂tN=Snl\partial_t N = S_{nl}, like an equilibrium of the Boltzmann equation.

Non-example: for capillary waves, three-wave resonances k=k1+k2k = k_1 + k_2, ω=ω1+ω2\omega = \omega_1 + \omega_2 are possible, and the kinetic equation has a three-wave collision term instead. For deep-water gravity waves, with ω=g∣k∣\omega = \sqrt{g \abs{k}}, three-wave resonances are impossible, and the four-wave term is the leading one.

The term SnlS_{nl} conserves the total action ∫N dk\int N \, dk, the total energy ∫ωN dk\int \omega N \, dk and the total momentum ∫kN dk\int k N \, dk. Its exact evaluation is costly, and forecasting models use approximations such as the discrete interaction approximation.

Reading path

To understand this page from the ground up, read these 5 pages in order. The foundations come first.

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  1. Boltzmann equation concept
  2. Dispersion relation concept
  3. Ocean wave spectrum concept
  4. Water waves concept
  5. Hasselmann's kinetic equation for wind waves definition

Further reading

  1. Web https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Wind_wave_model
About this page
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MSC86A05, 76B15, 35Q86
DefinesHasselmann's kinetic equation for wind waves
UsesOcean wave spectrum, Water waves, Dispersion relation, Boltzmann equation
Changed3 November 2026

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